The Yangtze River, Cruising Down The Chinese Water Highway

The Chinese flag flying over the great Yangtze River

Over the last decade the Yangtze River has been flooded for the purpose of the Three Gorges Dam, in turn taking out countless villages and towns, losing numerous cultural and historical sites. Some people say that the river cruise, which used to be one of Chinas tourism highlights has been ruined forever. The local people who have been evicted from their land are generally annoyed, and loads of officials have been stealing the poor peoples land compensation making it a rather large debacle. These were all great reasons why I wanted to go on the cruise. To be right there in a moment of great historical change.

The sun reflects on the Yangtze River

The cruise ship reflects the steep gorge walls

Being a backpacker with little money, I took the option of going on a Chinese tour rather than an expensive English one. The result was that I was one of about four English speaking people on the whole boat and basically didn't really see those other English people at all. Next I'd chosen to skip going to all the relocated temples because they basically are only a year or so old after being moved, so have lost their historical appeal. Finally I shelled out on a side cruise up the Lesser Three Gorges because they were supposedly more scenic than the main gorges. The total cost of this was around 700 Yuan (~NZ$180), which spread out over three days was a little more than my day to day budget, but was something a little different so totally worth it.

Hooray for Chinese tours

Inside The Lesser Three Gorges, with its vertical walls

The first night was spent riding a bus to the cruise ship four hours out of Chongqing, hoping on the boat and finding my bed. When I found my room, I walked in and placed my gear on my bed, then feeling rather hungry went to open up some food for dinner. In my third class room was another 5 Chinese people, one then took the liberty of yelling at me in Chinese and tieing up my bag of food so I couldn't have any. Rather confused and unable to communicate at all with him, I pointed to the food, rubbed my belly and rose an eyebrow. Not really sure what was going on, I didn't want to cause some big scene so went outside and stood on the deck looking out over the river. But soon enough hunger over took me so I went back in to try getting something to eat again. Same result! I was thinking that maybe there was going to be dinner served soon or something so I shouldn't be eating now, or maybe it was against usual customs to eat before the boat had got going? Confused I went and stood back at my viewing spot outside my room. It wasn't for another hour or so until the ships tour guide, who spoke a little English, came along to tell us about the nights itinerary. She quickly settled the dispute. Supposedly the old man hadn't seen me come in and place my bags on the bed, and being the racist person he was didn't expect to be sleeping with any foreigners down in third class. So when I had opened up my food bag he had assumed I had just walked into the room and tried to eat some poor mans loot. Rather hungry and angry by now I reluctantly smiled as he profusely apologised after finding out I was legitimately meant to be eating my food which was placed on my bed. Wanting to punch him in the face I made myself some noodles and calmed down after filling my stomach.

My third class room, with bathroom through back door. Go number 2310!

Layers of mountain ridges glow under a low sun

Soon fireworks were lit to send us on our way and the rest of the night was spent watching Chinese TV and making friends with the rest of my cabin friends through the two or three words one of them could write in English.

The new temples have lots of neon, just like an old traditional one

Old meets new, with a swallowed bridge being replaced by a new super bridge

The next morning at the crack of a 5am dawn we were woken to be introduced to the first of the three gorges. A spectacular sight even after flooding it. I enjoyed it for a short time before I fell asleep again to wake up at a normal rising time. Later that day the lesser three gorges tour took place. This was an exciting little trip up a smaller river through a narrow set of gorges with vertical walls running right down to the water, monkeys running about in the surrounding jungle, and a forced ride on some little raft which was enjoyed until I was made to pay 10 yuan for it.

Going through The Lesser Three Gorges

The Wuxia Gorge dwarfs a distant cargo ship

Later that night, we cruised through the next gorge, the Wuxia Gorge, another stunning natural wonder where the water has cut through the mountains over millions of years giving life to one of the most populous places on earth. Another night was spent in the third class cramped cabin, waking up in the morning we were getting ever closer to the dam. From here, just above the dam in the Xililng Gorge, the evidence for the destruction of the environment was getting clearer; signs pointing out the change in river depth were showing a 175m rise in the river level. The murky water could not stop my imagination from thinking about what had been buried underneath, but at the same time brought marvel at the capabilities of man to harness nature's power.

The river is only metres from being at its full 175m rise

The hazy sun sets over Wuxia Gorge

Sediment build up above the dam, environmental concern?

The cruise concluded with a tour of the three gorges dam. Disappointingly, the mist was so thick that I could only see halfway across the dam, therefore I had to make sure I got round to the other side of the river to see the other half. This viewing did not justify the additional cost of the tour of the dam, but was something that had to be done and would be good on a fine day. As annoying as the mist was, I was still well impressed by the grandeur of this monumental construction project and could almost believe the myth that the development has created a lake so large that it has shifted the earth from its rotational axis.

My viewing point from on the cruise ship

The Three Gorges Dam, in all its misty glory

The whole cruise ended with being dropped off at a bus stop in a random town. Not knowing where I was, I asked my new Chinese friends, ex-cabin mates, where the bus to Wuhan was. My hesitation meant I hoped on an all-ready full bus and was forced to wait for the next bus. Unfortunately, this did not leave for another hour and a half, which was about 6pm, and proceeded a five hour bus ride. Arriving in Wuhan, I only had a small hostel brochure that had a map of the surrounding three blocks of the hostel and that was all the information I had on the entire city. Rather worried that I may end up getting lost in a huge unknown city in the middle of the night I was fortunate enough to be going to the same hostel as a Spanish man on the bus. Together we asked, through a difficult language barrier, the Chinese bus driver where the hostel was. He was kind enough to take us off the main highway and on to a street on the corner of the little map on the hostel brochure. Arriving at a hostel at midnight is never fun, especially with no booking, but resting in bed, I was thankful it all worked out.

The locks running alongside the dam

A paradox: the widened river is meant to reduce carbon emissions from trucks winding round highways, but the boats cargo is coal...

In reflection of seeing the Three Gorges Dam I am left to ask myself was this right to build such a project, especially seeing I studied electrical engineering at university. There is a range of possible solutions to the problem, the alternatives that were available at the time of projects beginning were to build fossil fuel power stations or a nuclear plant. Neither of these are any good for the planet, so the dam is probably the best option as is using renewable energy. But the real problem is much larger than what kind of power plant to build. Fundamentally over population mixed with modernisation is causing the need for such projects. At this point in China's history, population growth has saturated the land available, and people are only now beginning to see the plight of modernising without caring for the environment. So the real question is how to solve the issues at the root?

Chongqing The biggest city you've never heard of

Another alley way mazes its way up into the centre of town

In the future I'd expect there to be trains that run along tracks set in the sky, through uncountable sky scrappers, with the ground barely in sight and the journey length shortened by the fact the track would run in a straight line with mountains or rivers being no obstacle for the tunnels and bridges man can make. Well the future is out there, its a place called Chongqing, a municipality of 31 million people in the heart of China. That train ride was my four hour pleasant journey from Chengdu into the heart of Chongqing city proper. This is the start of my controversial exploration of China.

The ever watching eye of the law

Chongqing, pronounced Ch'ung-ch'ing, is Chinas solution for the problem of having too many poor farmers in the country. The need to modernise the area resulted in the forming of the municipality in 1997 and has resulted in over ten years of huge economic growth and turning out one of the biggest industrial, economic and inhabited cities on earth. This sudden growth also accounts for the fact that no one from outside of China has heard of this place. But all this city growth has come at the cost of a lot of peoples freedom. The urbanisation from farmers, which is greatly contributed by the flooding of the Yangtze River for the Three Gorges Dam, means forcing people from their homes and placing them in the city where they face unemployment and poverty from having none of the skills needed for city life.

Shoe shiners take it to the streets. Job satisfaction guaranteed.

Protest, a daily activity in Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street, see it at the People's Liberation Monument

Technically everyone's homes where all government property a few decades ago under communist rule, so they have some legal right to move people into Chongqing at will. But ethically is it alright? In a place such as New Zealand where overpopulation is not a problem this would never be allowed. But in a place where there is a huge number of people rapidly being made relevantly poorer compared to the rich, something like this is needed to be done. Part of the solution does require more infrastructure such as the Three Gorges Dam, which comes at a more than monetary cost. From reading urbanisation plans while in Chongqing I came to understand somewhat that the government is trying its best to answer the problems faced, there just isn't any magic bullet that doesn't leave someone screwed over. Then there is the problem of a corrupt upper class which causes the lower to lose their voice, but this is a greed issue that lies at the heart of capitalism which has a western world to blame for. If only communism worked out the way was dreamed of.

The People's Liberation Monument is towered by their liberation into commercialism

This is my map I had of Chongqing, this is why I got lost numerous times

Anyway, I stayed two nights here organising myself onto a cruise down the Yangtze River, eating food, getting lost and being overwhelmed by the scale of everything. There is another fantastic hostel here in Chongqing which I stayed at being the Yangtze River International Hostel. Well worth the 35 Yuan a night, I got a free personally escorted taxi ride from a lovely hostel staff member off the train to the hostel which cost about the same as the first nights stay. The location being right across the road from the Yangtze provided the perfect view to accompany 3 Yuan beers bought from the man running some form of shop downstairs (they are 10 Yuan from the hostel). My highlights from the city were the renovated old town where some incredible food was bought, and sipping on the cheap brews with an English fella who'd had an 'eye opening' experience down in Thailand which involved getting into trouble with prostitutes.

A lovely poo brown Yangtze River as seen from the hostel

Jialing River at night, surrounded by office space

Otherwise I didn't do too much in Chongqing apart from walking round taking photos. Despite its controversy it is a pretty cool city that deserved more time that I could give it, and I'd love to come back and see it again in ten years. From here I'm joining a Chinese tour down the Yangtze to the Three Gorges Dam. Right into the depths of controversy.

The new old town of Chongqing

Panoramic of Jialing and Yangtze River confluence, marked by a new mega building

For those who have no idea where Chongqing is:

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Chengdu, it's not in the earthquake zone!

Buddhist garden statue

The train from Xian to Chengdu was one of the oldest and worst kept trains so far. This was multiplied by the fact I was now all alone in a country of one billion people and the old train meant people didn't care about spitting on the floor at all. So by the time the overnight train arrived in Chengdu there was a solid layer of phlegm on the ground. But because this is China you can't get worked up over it, so standing all through it I walked on out the train into Chengdu.

Everyone is driving these things, no wonder it is so dangerous these days

Here I was nicely greeted by a hostel staff member who gave me and some other backpackers on board the train a free taxi ride to the hostel we were staying at. This was a fantastic service and although driving in China is pretty mental it sure bet walking. I was staying at Sim's Cozy Hostel which possibly could take out the best hostel award for my entire adventure. The location wasn't amazing, a half hour walk to the centre of the city, but inside the hostel it was perfect. Set in a renovated apartment block, which now contains a traditional looking courtyard garden, complete with pigs, chickens, fish and lots of other animals. The rooms themselves were large with individually curtained off bunks and a bathroom for each dorm. There was also a bar and social area with a pool table and everything. This was all fantastic, plus the price of 30 Yuan a night (NZ$7.50) is ridiculously cheap, which is like about half the price of my old flat and even better to be at.

Mao stands outside the science and technology museum pointing out his great countries flag

Steaming dragon statue

Enough about the great hostel, it was time to explore Chengdu. I had received a message from Arnika that she was out and about somewhere, and that I should go to the Wenshu Temple, so I did. It is one of the busiest Buddhist temples around so trying to enjoy a peaceful green tea in the tea garden was passed up on. But apart from the tea garden the place wasn't too full of people so was enjoyable. It was actually really well taken care of, and I got to enjoy watching a weird ceremony where people would be chanting something while walking around in circles. There was also a peaceful nature garden full of frogs and turtles which was a good peaceful alternative to the busy tea garden.

The pagoda is run by an elephant

A frog chilling out at the temple's lake

Turtles are the boss around this lake though

Upon leaving the temple area (which might I add was only 5 Yuan to get in which is awesome value) I came to realise the need for such places in Chinese cities. I decided to walk into the centre of town and explore the heart of Chengdu. It is a great city, but it so busy and full of people. Also the city like most other Chinese cities in that it lacks any real character and soul, this comes from all the heartless buildings around trying to contain the masses of people. Although it is a double barrelled problem, the ex communist, now socialist China can't really get away with making awesome cities that screw over the millions of people, especially the millions of poor. But hopefully if China can cut away that corrupted middle management layer it has, the futuristic dreamers that have made Beijing such a success could hopefully inspire more throughout the country.

This is hot pot, it is awesome!

Meeting back up with Arnika at the hostel, she informed me that she had been able to make friends while on her own for all of two days. Jealous that she had had a pretty fun train ride into Chengdu on which she had happened to be sitting right beside an english couple, I was introduced to Ross and Alice over a night of real Sichuan hot pot and drinking terrible Chinese alcohol. The hot pot was fantastic to say the least, and of course spicy. We ended the night out at a pumping Chengdu nightclub which was showing a football game that Ross had to see (good old english and their football...). This became an interesting viewing once a young man clad in leather came onto the stage with a pole set in the middle and began to dance similar to that of Britney's 'toxic' music video.

Hot hot hot!

The following day I thought about going to see the pandas which you are basically required to go to by travellers law of what to do when in Chengdu. But I chopped it in return for sleeping in after seeing the human panda at the club last night. So instead spent the day going around Chengdu finding some cheap deals on electronics for everyone else and then eating food. The nights meal was sure to be great, we headed to this little lane I had came across and got an amazing soup dish for 5 Yuan the day before. But unfortunately we chose a restaurant which got off on making fun of our useless Chinese skills. So somehow we managed to order a pig offal soup and a fish complete with head and fins. The pig snout was slightly reminiscent of when Kazaks fed me pig fat in Russia but wasn't accompanied by vodka so was rather horrible. Unable to eat even half of the dishes we left disgusted and burned by the overly expensive bill of 120 Yuan. But upon reflection it was rather funny that those sneaky staff got away with serving us there most disgusting and most expensive dishes without us even thinking twice as they laughed their heads off while helping us order.

Sichuan fashion statement

Our final day in Chengdu was spent going up Mt Qingcheng a taoist holy mountain with a giant golden cow at the top. Arriving on the most packed bus ever, we were welcomed into the holy mountain by a group of chinese women beating up the staff. It was rather bizarre as we had no idea what the fight was about because people don't fight in english in China. Feeling I should break the fight up, I realised I couldn't because I had no way of saying stop fighting. So instead took some photos and proceeded to buy our entrance tickets. Here travelling tip #1 comes into play, always ask for a student discount, even if you don't have a student id. Instant half price reduction to 45 Yuan, even the english couple just showed a english drivers license and got the deal. I do have a illegitimate student card, but the glory of being in a foreign language country is they don't know what a english student card should say.

Round 1, Fight!

A small gorge in the mountain

The mountain had steps up it, so wasn't that bad a walk

Somehow we convinced Arnika to walk up to the top even though she is solidly opposed to walking up things, which was totally worth it for the mountain temples and especially for the giant golden cow at the top. Having no idea that there was going to be a giant cow at the top was an added bonus. It was one of those amazing things you stumble upon while travelling without having any pre-knowledge of it. This made up for the fact that the typical Sichuan misty day meant we had no view, and that the supposed lake had been drained after the tragic earthquake a few months prior.

A covered part of the walk, accompanied by peaceful music coming out of hidden rock shaped speakers

An awesome view of mist

This is the giant golden cow, about 20 odd metres tall

A pumped up team after seeing the giant cow in the building behind

The last night in Chengdu was rather non eventful and in the morning we were all departing our different ways. Saying goodbye to Arnika and to our english friends I jumped on a bus to the train station which took me away to Chongqing. Now I was truly on my own, this was actually pretty good as although having a friend around is good, I was now able to do whatever I liked and meant that things were a lot more rewarding due to being accountable for all challenges faced. Here in Chengdu I also came to realise that I would be going home as originally booked in to at the end of my Chinese adventure. Ideas such as going to Japan to go snowboarding, or going to south east asia had been chopped to the ever present economic crises which had devalued my savings a considerable amount. I decided it best to return home with some money in pocket instead of like my last trip to Canada where I came home broke and in a lot of debt.

Xian is pronounced she-aan

The overnight train to Xian from Beijing is rather nice seeing it is along the new controversial Beijing to Lhasa, 'Tibetan population dilution' route. A brand new carriage made the third class sleeper seem like first class compared to the Russian and other Chinese old timers. But unfortunately the Chinese aren't quite into drinking like the Russians, so nothing really interesting happened on the ride we just slept, woke up and got off at another incredibly busy Chinese train station.

The Bell Tower, all lit up and looking impressive

Off to the hostel, it seems like we are firmly set in a typical travelling routine. Train, find hostel, relax, have fun for a day or two, do it all again. When you reach this point in time in travelling it means something has to change otherwise it just becomes a bit boring. We decided that Xian would be the final destination of the travel team. From here we would go our separate ways and make our own adventures. This also made sense as we all had different ideas for what we would like to see in China, seeing there is no set in stone route like the Trans-Mongolian rail.

The hostel is right opposite the city wall...

Gratefully Xian has a really awesome hostel that we stayed in. The Shuyuan International Hostel was set in a traditional Chinese courtyard, had a bar, some western styled toilets, really friendly staff and that good old free wifi. But you don't really come to Xian for the hostel, you basically only come here for the big attraction in town, the terracotta warriors.

Mr Terracotta up close and personal

Discovered 30 odd years ago by a farmer digging a well, there are thousands of life sized warriors just lying in some tombs which have collapsed and kinda broken them all. Painstakingly these are slowly being put back together in perfect formation.

The reconstructed warriors

The super cheap bus ride out to the warriors was much appreciated after the Great Wall debacle, and the student discount we got on the entrance fare made the sight worth going to (40 yuan, NZ$10, instead of 80 yuan). But after going and seeing it all, I would have been quite disappointed had I paid the full adult fare. The warriors are some what cool, but they are rather over hyped. There is only really about a hundred or two that are in good condition, and the rest are all lying in collapsed tombs. Even though there are still hundreds to be put back together you only really need to see one or two to get the idea, so wandering around the three different sites got a little tiring. The second site was probably the most disappointing, being in this massive aircraft hanger sized building with only about three or four warriors in it that were partially together. The building itself was much more impressive than the archaeological dig.

Site number 2, huge building, not much to see though, all the tombs basically had nothing in them apart from broken pieces of terracotta

Some warriors wait for life to be given to them like pinocchio

When we got back into town we went to a train ticketing office and sealed the deal on departing from one another. Tom was going to Shanghai, Arnika to Chengdu, and I was sticking around in Xian for a day longer then going to Chengdu (where I would meet up with Arnika again for two days but then leave her for good). A final meal together was enjoyed in the Muslim district, with a tourist priced bowl of lamb and bread soup which was pretty good. Then we had a few brews back at the hostel bar and toasted to a once in a life time trip that was thoroughly enjoyed.

Muslim districts main drag

A typical food on sticks street vendor

The next morning everyone left except for me, and so I spent the day walking around town without seeing really anything of interest. At night I went out to dinner by myself for the first time since I was in Germany over two months ago, an experience not really that entertaining, again I headed to the Muslim district. This time I went deep into a back alleyway to find a cheap and not touristy place to get the lamb and bread soup. This time it was half the price and probably twice as good. A decision I didn't regret at the time.

This is the alley way I bought the dodgy meal from, just because it is a back alley way doesn't mean it can't be packed with people

Waking up the next morning I was rather regretful. A day planned to go see the goose pagodas and to explore the old town wall was cancelled due to the disability I was suffering from the lamb that caused a visit to the toilet once an hour. Getting rather worried about having to take a train all alone that night with an exploding belly I downed a couple butt-plugging pills. This gave me enough relief to quickly go see the small goose pagoda on one excursion, then after a quick visit to see a man about a dog, went to the supermarket to stock up on the most bland western food I could find.

Small Goose Pagoda, took this photo at the risk of crapping my pants in the street. This situation would have been alright because in China streets are pretty much one up from sewers.

The night time train getting ever more present I took the afternoon very calmly by basically just surfing the net. Confident the pills were working after not needing the bathroom for a few hours I managed to make the train to Chengdu and to get off without any complications.

Being the second time on my adventure that I've had biological issues I am now well experienced. Therefore I can give the following advice: don't let the issues stop you from trying different things. Sure you might end up having a terrible day once in a while, but eating food in dodgy alleys is really not that bad, generally safe if you choose well and a real cultural experience. If that kind of excuse is stopping you from travelling to some exotic location then look deep at yourself in a mirror one day and punch yourself in the face, because you are missing out on a lot.

Inside the Xian railway station. Honestly mental.

Well Chengdu here I come. Watch out.

Costs:
Shuyuan Hostel: 20 Yuan a night ~ NZ$5 (super good deal that)
Tourist priced meal in Muslim district: 20 Yuan
Same meal in back alley way: 10 Yuan
Train to Chengdu: Can't remember, but would have been about 60-80 Yuan.