Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Chengdu, it's not in the earthquake zone!

Buddhist garden statue

The train from Xian to Chengdu was one of the oldest and worst kept trains so far. This was multiplied by the fact I was now all alone in a country of one billion people and the old train meant people didn't care about spitting on the floor at all. So by the time the overnight train arrived in Chengdu there was a solid layer of phlegm on the ground. But because this is China you can't get worked up over it, so standing all through it I walked on out the train into Chengdu.

Everyone is driving these things, no wonder it is so dangerous these days

Here I was nicely greeted by a hostel staff member who gave me and some other backpackers on board the train a free taxi ride to the hostel we were staying at. This was a fantastic service and although driving in China is pretty mental it sure bet walking. I was staying at Sim's Cozy Hostel which possibly could take out the best hostel award for my entire adventure. The location wasn't amazing, a half hour walk to the centre of the city, but inside the hostel it was perfect. Set in a renovated apartment block, which now contains a traditional looking courtyard garden, complete with pigs, chickens, fish and lots of other animals. The rooms themselves were large with individually curtained off bunks and a bathroom for each dorm. There was also a bar and social area with a pool table and everything. This was all fantastic, plus the price of 30 Yuan a night (NZ$7.50) is ridiculously cheap, which is like about half the price of my old flat and even better to be at.

Mao stands outside the science and technology museum pointing out his great countries flag

Steaming dragon statue

Enough about the great hostel, it was time to explore Chengdu. I had received a message from Arnika that she was out and about somewhere, and that I should go to the Wenshu Temple, so I did. It is one of the busiest Buddhist temples around so trying to enjoy a peaceful green tea in the tea garden was passed up on. But apart from the tea garden the place wasn't too full of people so was enjoyable. It was actually really well taken care of, and I got to enjoy watching a weird ceremony where people would be chanting something while walking around in circles. There was also a peaceful nature garden full of frogs and turtles which was a good peaceful alternative to the busy tea garden.

The pagoda is run by an elephant

A frog chilling out at the temple's lake

Turtles are the boss around this lake though

Upon leaving the temple area (which might I add was only 5 Yuan to get in which is awesome value) I came to realise the need for such places in Chinese cities. I decided to walk into the centre of town and explore the heart of Chengdu. It is a great city, but it so busy and full of people. Also the city like most other Chinese cities in that it lacks any real character and soul, this comes from all the heartless buildings around trying to contain the masses of people. Although it is a double barrelled problem, the ex communist, now socialist China can't really get away with making awesome cities that screw over the millions of people, especially the millions of poor. But hopefully if China can cut away that corrupted middle management layer it has, the futuristic dreamers that have made Beijing such a success could hopefully inspire more throughout the country.

This is hot pot, it is awesome!

Meeting back up with Arnika at the hostel, she informed me that she had been able to make friends while on her own for all of two days. Jealous that she had had a pretty fun train ride into Chengdu on which she had happened to be sitting right beside an english couple, I was introduced to Ross and Alice over a night of real Sichuan hot pot and drinking terrible Chinese alcohol. The hot pot was fantastic to say the least, and of course spicy. We ended the night out at a pumping Chengdu nightclub which was showing a football game that Ross had to see (good old english and their football...). This became an interesting viewing once a young man clad in leather came onto the stage with a pole set in the middle and began to dance similar to that of Britney's 'toxic' music video.

Hot hot hot!

The following day I thought about going to see the pandas which you are basically required to go to by travellers law of what to do when in Chengdu. But I chopped it in return for sleeping in after seeing the human panda at the club last night. So instead spent the day going around Chengdu finding some cheap deals on electronics for everyone else and then eating food. The nights meal was sure to be great, we headed to this little lane I had came across and got an amazing soup dish for 5 Yuan the day before. But unfortunately we chose a restaurant which got off on making fun of our useless Chinese skills. So somehow we managed to order a pig offal soup and a fish complete with head and fins. The pig snout was slightly reminiscent of when Kazaks fed me pig fat in Russia but wasn't accompanied by vodka so was rather horrible. Unable to eat even half of the dishes we left disgusted and burned by the overly expensive bill of 120 Yuan. But upon reflection it was rather funny that those sneaky staff got away with serving us there most disgusting and most expensive dishes without us even thinking twice as they laughed their heads off while helping us order.

Sichuan fashion statement

Our final day in Chengdu was spent going up Mt Qingcheng a taoist holy mountain with a giant golden cow at the top. Arriving on the most packed bus ever, we were welcomed into the holy mountain by a group of chinese women beating up the staff. It was rather bizarre as we had no idea what the fight was about because people don't fight in english in China. Feeling I should break the fight up, I realised I couldn't because I had no way of saying stop fighting. So instead took some photos and proceeded to buy our entrance tickets. Here travelling tip #1 comes into play, always ask for a student discount, even if you don't have a student id. Instant half price reduction to 45 Yuan, even the english couple just showed a english drivers license and got the deal. I do have a illegitimate student card, but the glory of being in a foreign language country is they don't know what a english student card should say.

Round 1, Fight!

A small gorge in the mountain

The mountain had steps up it, so wasn't that bad a walk

Somehow we convinced Arnika to walk up to the top even though she is solidly opposed to walking up things, which was totally worth it for the mountain temples and especially for the giant golden cow at the top. Having no idea that there was going to be a giant cow at the top was an added bonus. It was one of those amazing things you stumble upon while travelling without having any pre-knowledge of it. This made up for the fact that the typical Sichuan misty day meant we had no view, and that the supposed lake had been drained after the tragic earthquake a few months prior.

A covered part of the walk, accompanied by peaceful music coming out of hidden rock shaped speakers

An awesome view of mist

This is the giant golden cow, about 20 odd metres tall

A pumped up team after seeing the giant cow in the building behind

The last night in Chengdu was rather non eventful and in the morning we were all departing our different ways. Saying goodbye to Arnika and to our english friends I jumped on a bus to the train station which took me away to Chongqing. Now I was truly on my own, this was actually pretty good as although having a friend around is good, I was now able to do whatever I liked and meant that things were a lot more rewarding due to being accountable for all challenges faced. Here in Chengdu I also came to realise that I would be going home as originally booked in to at the end of my Chinese adventure. Ideas such as going to Japan to go snowboarding, or going to south east asia had been chopped to the ever present economic crises which had devalued my savings a considerable amount. I decided it best to return home with some money in pocket instead of like my last trip to Canada where I came home broke and in a lot of debt.

1 comment:

Poms said...

I can't believe you think your hostel was better than our flat. I'm hurt :'(

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