Xian is pronounced she-aan

The overnight train to Xian from Beijing is rather nice seeing it is along the new controversial Beijing to Lhasa, 'Tibetan population dilution' route. A brand new carriage made the third class sleeper seem like first class compared to the Russian and other Chinese old timers. But unfortunately the Chinese aren't quite into drinking like the Russians, so nothing really interesting happened on the ride we just slept, woke up and got off at another incredibly busy Chinese train station.

The Bell Tower, all lit up and looking impressive

Off to the hostel, it seems like we are firmly set in a typical travelling routine. Train, find hostel, relax, have fun for a day or two, do it all again. When you reach this point in time in travelling it means something has to change otherwise it just becomes a bit boring. We decided that Xian would be the final destination of the travel team. From here we would go our separate ways and make our own adventures. This also made sense as we all had different ideas for what we would like to see in China, seeing there is no set in stone route like the Trans-Mongolian rail.

The hostel is right opposite the city wall...

Gratefully Xian has a really awesome hostel that we stayed in. The Shuyuan International Hostel was set in a traditional Chinese courtyard, had a bar, some western styled toilets, really friendly staff and that good old free wifi. But you don't really come to Xian for the hostel, you basically only come here for the big attraction in town, the terracotta warriors.

Mr Terracotta up close and personal

Discovered 30 odd years ago by a farmer digging a well, there are thousands of life sized warriors just lying in some tombs which have collapsed and kinda broken them all. Painstakingly these are slowly being put back together in perfect formation.

The reconstructed warriors

The super cheap bus ride out to the warriors was much appreciated after the Great Wall debacle, and the student discount we got on the entrance fare made the sight worth going to (40 yuan, NZ$10, instead of 80 yuan). But after going and seeing it all, I would have been quite disappointed had I paid the full adult fare. The warriors are some what cool, but they are rather over hyped. There is only really about a hundred or two that are in good condition, and the rest are all lying in collapsed tombs. Even though there are still hundreds to be put back together you only really need to see one or two to get the idea, so wandering around the three different sites got a little tiring. The second site was probably the most disappointing, being in this massive aircraft hanger sized building with only about three or four warriors in it that were partially together. The building itself was much more impressive than the archaeological dig.

Site number 2, huge building, not much to see though, all the tombs basically had nothing in them apart from broken pieces of terracotta

Some warriors wait for life to be given to them like pinocchio

When we got back into town we went to a train ticketing office and sealed the deal on departing from one another. Tom was going to Shanghai, Arnika to Chengdu, and I was sticking around in Xian for a day longer then going to Chengdu (where I would meet up with Arnika again for two days but then leave her for good). A final meal together was enjoyed in the Muslim district, with a tourist priced bowl of lamb and bread soup which was pretty good. Then we had a few brews back at the hostel bar and toasted to a once in a life time trip that was thoroughly enjoyed.

Muslim districts main drag

A typical food on sticks street vendor

The next morning everyone left except for me, and so I spent the day walking around town without seeing really anything of interest. At night I went out to dinner by myself for the first time since I was in Germany over two months ago, an experience not really that entertaining, again I headed to the Muslim district. This time I went deep into a back alleyway to find a cheap and not touristy place to get the lamb and bread soup. This time it was half the price and probably twice as good. A decision I didn't regret at the time.

This is the alley way I bought the dodgy meal from, just because it is a back alley way doesn't mean it can't be packed with people

Waking up the next morning I was rather regretful. A day planned to go see the goose pagodas and to explore the old town wall was cancelled due to the disability I was suffering from the lamb that caused a visit to the toilet once an hour. Getting rather worried about having to take a train all alone that night with an exploding belly I downed a couple butt-plugging pills. This gave me enough relief to quickly go see the small goose pagoda on one excursion, then after a quick visit to see a man about a dog, went to the supermarket to stock up on the most bland western food I could find.

Small Goose Pagoda, took this photo at the risk of crapping my pants in the street. This situation would have been alright because in China streets are pretty much one up from sewers.

The night time train getting ever more present I took the afternoon very calmly by basically just surfing the net. Confident the pills were working after not needing the bathroom for a few hours I managed to make the train to Chengdu and to get off without any complications.

Being the second time on my adventure that I've had biological issues I am now well experienced. Therefore I can give the following advice: don't let the issues stop you from trying different things. Sure you might end up having a terrible day once in a while, but eating food in dodgy alleys is really not that bad, generally safe if you choose well and a real cultural experience. If that kind of excuse is stopping you from travelling to some exotic location then look deep at yourself in a mirror one day and punch yourself in the face, because you are missing out on a lot.

Inside the Xian railway station. Honestly mental.

Well Chengdu here I come. Watch out.

Costs:
Shuyuan Hostel: 20 Yuan a night ~ NZ$5 (super good deal that)
Tourist priced meal in Muslim district: 20 Yuan
Same meal in back alley way: 10 Yuan
Train to Chengdu: Can't remember, but would have been about 60-80 Yuan.